KOLDERSTOK BATAVIA / HAARLEM
- Topicstarter Heinrich
- Startdatum
Dear Friends
A little while ago I acquired the Falkonet Longboat Kit (the 20-oar version), because I wanted a more detailed longboat for the Haarlem . Ab Hoving, well-known authority on Dutch ships, pointed out that the Falkonet would not be historically correct for the Haarlem. As a result, Ab sent me the detailed plans and drawings for the “Chaloup” longboat as it would have been used on Dutch ships of the seventeeth century. These plans are currently being reworked and brought to scale, so more about that when they are ready.
As you all know I intend to install 6 cannons on the deck of the Haarlem which will require quite a bit of reworking the wales and organising the deck space available. As the longboat is also housed on this section of the deck, I thought that it a good idea to construct that first to see exactly what space I have available for the cannons.
The false keel assembly comes in two parts - the false keel itself to which the separate bow section is glued. Note the dotted line at the bottom of the keel. I will discuss its function later.
Next up are the two pieces of rising wood which have to be bevelled before they can be attcahed to the keel. Falkonet actually supplies 4 of these pieces - two as spares. The pieces are clearly marked with a line up to where it meeds to be bevelled, so this can be done with great accuracy. I used a jeweller’s diamond file for this and it went very quickly
Bakboord kant.
Stuurboord kant.
There are also two pieces of deadwood that are shaped and placed at the stern. Maar daarvan het Heinrich vergeet om fotos te neem! Apologies!
For the construction of the frame a jig and “guide” (for want of a better word) are supplied.
The guide has three tabs which are glued into the corresponding holes in the jig. No guesswork is required here as the guide can only fit in one possible way.
The guide is glued into the jig.
The 24 x spanten are clearly marked and are inserted upside down into the jig. NB!!! DO NOT GLUE THE SPANTEN TO THE JIG !!!
This little exercise was a pleasure to do as absolutely NO SANDING, FILING or TAMPERING of any kind was required to ensure the proper fitment of the spanten into the mal.
As you can see, the slots into which the false keel needs to inserted are perfectly aligned. Given the way in which the spanten fitted into the mal, I was expecting this, but it was still good to see it in reality. Well done Falkonet!
The next step shows the false keel inserted into the bulkhead slots while the bow section of the keel fits into its own slot at the bow-end of the jig.
The instructions say that the false keel should only be glued to the last four spanten (aan die agterstewe), but I glued all bulkheads to the false keel.
As you can see, the keel is arrow-straight and 100% warp free.
The last piece of the frame that needs to be fitted is the rear transom which also needs to be faired up to the line inscribed on it. This will obviously make the planking much easier later on.
That is that then for the first phase of the construction. The next step is the gluing of the ribs to the spanten and then the planking of the hull can start.
Take care everyone - stay safe and enjoy your shipbuilding.
Kind regards - Heinrich
A little while ago I acquired the Falkonet Longboat Kit (the 20-oar version), because I wanted a more detailed longboat for the Haarlem . Ab Hoving, well-known authority on Dutch ships, pointed out that the Falkonet would not be historically correct for the Haarlem. As a result, Ab sent me the detailed plans and drawings for the “Chaloup” longboat as it would have been used on Dutch ships of the seventeeth century. These plans are currently being reworked and brought to scale, so more about that when they are ready.
As you all know I intend to install 6 cannons on the deck of the Haarlem which will require quite a bit of reworking the wales and organising the deck space available. As the longboat is also housed on this section of the deck, I thought that it a good idea to construct that first to see exactly what space I have available for the cannons.
The false keel assembly comes in two parts - the false keel itself to which the separate bow section is glued. Note the dotted line at the bottom of the keel. I will discuss its function later.
Next up are the two pieces of rising wood which have to be bevelled before they can be attcahed to the keel. Falkonet actually supplies 4 of these pieces - two as spares. The pieces are clearly marked with a line up to where it meeds to be bevelled, so this can be done with great accuracy. I used a jeweller’s diamond file for this and it went very quickly
Bakboord kant.
Stuurboord kant.
There are also two pieces of deadwood that are shaped and placed at the stern. Maar daarvan het Heinrich vergeet om fotos te neem! Apologies!
For the construction of the frame a jig and “guide” (for want of a better word) are supplied.
The guide has three tabs which are glued into the corresponding holes in the jig. No guesswork is required here as the guide can only fit in one possible way.
The guide is glued into the jig.
The 24 x spanten are clearly marked and are inserted upside down into the jig. NB!!! DO NOT GLUE THE SPANTEN TO THE JIG !!!
This little exercise was a pleasure to do as absolutely NO SANDING, FILING or TAMPERING of any kind was required to ensure the proper fitment of the spanten into the mal.
As you can see, the slots into which the false keel needs to inserted are perfectly aligned. Given the way in which the spanten fitted into the mal, I was expecting this, but it was still good to see it in reality. Well done Falkonet!
The next step shows the false keel inserted into the bulkhead slots while the bow section of the keel fits into its own slot at the bow-end of the jig.
The instructions say that the false keel should only be glued to the last four spanten (aan die agterstewe), but I glued all bulkheads to the false keel.
As you can see, the keel is arrow-straight and 100% warp free.
The last piece of the frame that needs to be fitted is the rear transom which also needs to be faired up to the line inscribed on it. This will obviously make the planking much easier later on.
That is that then for the first phase of the construction. The next step is the gluing of the ribs to the spanten and then the planking of the hull can start.
Take care everyone - stay safe and enjoy your shipbuilding.
Kind regards - Heinrich
TIMBERWOLF
Forum veteraan
Mooi begin
@TIMBERWOLF Baie dankie, Timber. Dit lyk vir my asof jy ook n "night owl" is!
F
Flying Scotsman
Guest
Heinrich dit gaat je zeker lukken, gaat goed komen 
, we volgen je op de voet, succes....
Hello Dear Shipbuilding Friends
So as promised, we continue with installing the ribs. This is at best a "gefriemel" as the ribs are very thin and very fragile. Luckily, Falkonet provides plenty of spares in case you break some.
A closer look at the rib indicates a very feint line (indicated by the red arrow). These lines must be visible at all times (i.e. the other side should be glued to the spanten) and indicates the point up to where the ribs should slot into the little grooves where the spanten meet the mal. (See the next picture).
This picture shows how the ribs need to be glued to the spanten. Starting from the agterstewe with the 4 x most aft spanten, they are glued up to the point as indicated by the blue line. This will be determined by the length of the ribs. From that point onwards, the spanten still follow the red line at the “bottom” of the mal, but the other ends are inserted into the slots provided (by the green arrows). At the boeg, the ribs once more follow the red line but are now glued against the two shaped pieces of rising wood as indicated by the yellow lines.
With all the ribs installed, it was time to start the planking. Here I used the "wet-plank" method. First, PVA glue was applied to the spanten after which the plank was held underneath the cold tap for about three seconds. The wet plank is then placed into position and “ironed” to the spanten with the flat side of the pre-heated plank bender. As the heat dries the wood it also dries the glue, resulting in an almost immediate bond - yet allowing sufficient time to make any necessary adjustments.
Planks being ironed onto the spanten.
With no need to wait for the glue to dry one side was almost completed in a single session - except for the last two planks closest to the wales.
I know that most people (including myself) plank stuurboord and bakboord sides simultaneously to prevent keel warping, but in this case that was never going to happen. The whole assembly is very sturdy (the mal plays an important part in this) while the planks are very thin. The force that the planks thus exert on the hull are absolutely negligible.
With both sides planked to the same level, it was now time to cut off the little “feet” which house the grooves. I did this because I could not get the plank bender to lie flat against the mal with the feet in place.
Here you can see the little feet removed. With the X-Acto knife this goes very quickly.
Close up of the jig with the spanten feet removed.
The last step in Phase 2 is the part where the romp needs to be removed from the mal. Some careful prodding with the edge of a small metal ruler, perfectly released from the hull from the jig without anything breaking. Phew!!!
And that - my dear friends - conclude Phase 2. Stay tuned for more.
As usual all the likes, critique and comments are always appreciated and most valued!. Stay safe and take care.
Kind regards - Heinrich
So as promised, we continue with installing the ribs. This is at best a "gefriemel" as the ribs are very thin and very fragile. Luckily, Falkonet provides plenty of spares in case you break some.
A closer look at the rib indicates a very feint line (indicated by the red arrow). These lines must be visible at all times (i.e. the other side should be glued to the spanten) and indicates the point up to where the ribs should slot into the little grooves where the spanten meet the mal. (See the next picture).
This picture shows how the ribs need to be glued to the spanten. Starting from the agterstewe with the 4 x most aft spanten, they are glued up to the point as indicated by the blue line. This will be determined by the length of the ribs. From that point onwards, the spanten still follow the red line at the “bottom” of the mal, but the other ends are inserted into the slots provided (by the green arrows). At the boeg, the ribs once more follow the red line but are now glued against the two shaped pieces of rising wood as indicated by the yellow lines.
With all the ribs installed, it was time to start the planking. Here I used the "wet-plank" method. First, PVA glue was applied to the spanten after which the plank was held underneath the cold tap for about three seconds. The wet plank is then placed into position and “ironed” to the spanten with the flat side of the pre-heated plank bender. As the heat dries the wood it also dries the glue, resulting in an almost immediate bond - yet allowing sufficient time to make any necessary adjustments.
Planks being ironed onto the spanten.
With no need to wait for the glue to dry one side was almost completed in a single session - except for the last two planks closest to the wales.
I know that most people (including myself) plank stuurboord and bakboord sides simultaneously to prevent keel warping, but in this case that was never going to happen. The whole assembly is very sturdy (the mal plays an important part in this) while the planks are very thin. The force that the planks thus exert on the hull are absolutely negligible.
With both sides planked to the same level, it was now time to cut off the little “feet” which house the grooves. I did this because I could not get the plank bender to lie flat against the mal with the feet in place.
Here you can see the little feet removed. With the X-Acto knife this goes very quickly.
Close up of the jig with the spanten feet removed.
The last step in Phase 2 is the part where the romp needs to be removed from the mal. Some careful prodding with the edge of a small metal ruler, perfectly released from the hull from the jig without anything breaking. Phew!!!
And that - my dear friends - conclude Phase 2. Stay tuned for more.
As usual all the likes, critique and comments are always appreciated and most valued!. Stay safe and take care.
Kind regards - Heinrich
Stephan Kertész
Forum veteraan
Top
Jaques
Forum veteraan
En daar ben ik het helemaal mee eensSchoolvoorbeeld van beplanken Heinrich, dus géén kritiek alleen maar lof...
