We kunnen ook wel samen rijden hoor Dirk, scheelt in de benzine...
Peking - Parijs - Peking Ik doe mee!
KOLDERSTOK BATAVIA / HAARLEM
- Topicstarter Heinrich
- Startdatum
Peking - Parijs - Peking Ik doe mee!
And thank you very much for that, Stephan. I will need all the other pairs of eyes I can get.
Thank you Hans - and Peking is a lot safer than Paris!
I know Heinrich. But I still like Tokyo (and Japan in general) the most.
Dear Friends
I trust that you are all well and keeping safe.
Normally, I try to post weekly updates when a certain part of the build process has been completed. This time, though, I knew that (in my case) a week was to impossible to complete the next part. The reason - BEPLANKING!!!
From the beginning of the build this was the part that I dreaded the most. I had never done anything of the kind before and to worsen matters, there is only ONE layer of planking. Get it wrong the first time and there is no chance of hiding any imperfections below a second layer. The thought of “measure twice, cut once” would be important but not as important as Koos's words of “KEEP CALM”! So, I told myself that if I could only lay one plank a day - so be it!
So without further ado, the spare kettle was boiled and strip by strip the wood was soaked for about 5 minutes. One day I used this kettle to make me coffee - must say I couldn't taste the difference between normal Nescafe and Nescafe NOTEN!
Kolderstok's plank bender was certainly worth its money and made things much easier.
Plenty of push pins were used to secure the plank while drying. At this point I really appreciated all the hard work that went into the linden filler block as I felt much more at ease that once driven home, the pushpins were not going anywhere.
So for the last two weeks that was what I have been doing. Most days I laid two planks (one on either side), some days three and even four on one occasion! And that brings us to the point where I am now - fourteen days of work, 15 minutes of posting! 21 planks are laid.
What the strory does not tell is all the headscratching, refitting, wrongly cut planks especially as I was trying to figure out HOW and WHERE the "verlore gangen" should go. Thank you for your help, Leensen!
Now I am as low down on the hull as I can comfortably work on my building board. To go further, I will have to fabricate some sort of "jig" that will allow me to turn the ship upside down. So, I have decided to continue planking from the top wale upwards for the time being. Here are the progress shots.
Stuurboord Kant - Ongeschuurd
Bakboord - liggies geschuur.
Boeg symmetry. I hope that I can still snad out the little "kieringen" as plamuur is not really an option. As is always the case on these macro pictures it looks worse than it is, but it is there. I am also not happy with the berghout on the bakboord side and have thought of removing it. I just have no idea how as my glue - even though it is white PVA and not water-resistant (like Bison D2) certainly resists all the water that I have tried.
Bakboord
Stuurboord. As you can see the first of the geschutpoorten has been opened up. This presents its own challenge and will take me a long time to do the way that I want it done.
So please bear with me if I don't post as many updates as before, This to me this is the crucial part of the build and one that requires all of my concentration. I still follow the forum whenever I take a break and I wish you everything of the best with all of your builds and projects.
Thank you for visiting and for following - it is greatly appreciated. And remember - comments AND criticism are always welcome!
Kind regards - Heinrich
I trust that you are all well and keeping safe.
Normally, I try to post weekly updates when a certain part of the build process has been completed. This time, though, I knew that (in my case) a week was to impossible to complete the next part. The reason - BEPLANKING!!!
From the beginning of the build this was the part that I dreaded the most. I had never done anything of the kind before and to worsen matters, there is only ONE layer of planking. Get it wrong the first time and there is no chance of hiding any imperfections below a second layer. The thought of “measure twice, cut once” would be important but not as important as Koos's words of “KEEP CALM”! So, I told myself that if I could only lay one plank a day - so be it!
So without further ado, the spare kettle was boiled and strip by strip the wood was soaked for about 5 minutes. One day I used this kettle to make me coffee - must say I couldn't taste the difference between normal Nescafe and Nescafe NOTEN!
Kolderstok's plank bender was certainly worth its money and made things much easier.
Plenty of push pins were used to secure the plank while drying. At this point I really appreciated all the hard work that went into the linden filler block as I felt much more at ease that once driven home, the pushpins were not going anywhere.
So for the last two weeks that was what I have been doing. Most days I laid two planks (one on either side), some days three and even four on one occasion! And that brings us to the point where I am now - fourteen days of work, 15 minutes of posting! 21 planks are laid.
What the strory does not tell is all the headscratching, refitting, wrongly cut planks especially as I was trying to figure out HOW and WHERE the "verlore gangen" should go. Thank you for your help, Leensen!
Now I am as low down on the hull as I can comfortably work on my building board. To go further, I will have to fabricate some sort of "jig" that will allow me to turn the ship upside down. So, I have decided to continue planking from the top wale upwards for the time being. Here are the progress shots.
Stuurboord Kant - Ongeschuurd
Bakboord - liggies geschuur.
Boeg symmetry. I hope that I can still snad out the little "kieringen" as plamuur is not really an option. As is always the case on these macro pictures it looks worse than it is, but it is there. I am also not happy with the berghout on the bakboord side and have thought of removing it. I just have no idea how as my glue - even though it is white PVA and not water-resistant (like Bison D2) certainly resists all the water that I have tried.
Bakboord
Stuurboord. As you can see the first of the geschutpoorten has been opened up. This presents its own challenge and will take me a long time to do the way that I want it done.
So please bear with me if I don't post as many updates as before, This to me this is the crucial part of the build and one that requires all of my concentration. I still follow the forum whenever I take a break and I wish you everything of the best with all of your builds and projects.
Thank you for visiting and for following - it is greatly appreciated. And remember - comments AND criticism are always welcome!
Kind regards - Heinrich
TIMBERWOLF
Forum veteraan
Het ziet er best wel goed uit Heinrich en ik kan me héél goed voorstellen dat dit geen makkelijke opgaaf is als je dit de 1e keer doet. De zeeg (kromming van voor naar achteren) is een tikkie teveel in je beplanking als ik dit vergelijk met het dek, niet dat dit een probleem gaat worden voor je model, maar hoe meer zeeg je in je beplanking brengt, des te moeilijker je het jezelf maakt, zeker als je met notenhout werkt, wat in de lengte richting niet zo makkelijk buigt. Dus misschien een aandacht puntje voor een volgende keer om een referentie punt van het dek aan te houden hieronder te zien wat ik bedoel;
De afstand tot het dek is bij de rode pijltjes aanzienlijk groter als bij de witte. Dit heeft niet echt gevolgen voor het uiterlijk straks, maar de grotere kromming in je beplanking maakt het allemaal iets moeilijker en kost ook wat meer instekers bij het achterschip straks..
Buiten dit zitten je latten er netjes tegen hoor, dus niet teveel zorgen en gewoon rustig doorgaan
De afstand tot het dek is bij de rode pijltjes aanzienlijk groter als bij de witte. Dit heeft niet echt gevolgen voor het uiterlijk straks, maar de grotere kromming in je beplanking maakt het allemaal iets moeilijker en kost ook wat meer instekers bij het achterschip straks..
Buiten dit zitten je latten er netjes tegen hoor, dus niet teveel zorgen en gewoon rustig doorgaan
ik vind het er anders heel goed uitzien.
in die tijd hadden de schepen een grote zeeg .
je moet achteraan toch ergens met je berghout aan de hekbalk uitkomen en dan moet je naar boven beginnen krommen.
en de beplanking ziet er echt wel erg strak uit Heinrich doe rustig voort je bent goed bezig
in die tijd hadden de schepen een grote zeeg .
je moet achteraan toch ergens met je berghout aan de hekbalk uitkomen en dan moet je naar boven beginnen krommen.
en de beplanking ziet er echt wel erg strak uit Heinrich doe rustig voort je bent goed bezig
Voor een eerste keer, hats off!!
Maar daar waar de rode pijlen van Piet staan zit daar geen deuk in het berghout? Of is dat de vervorming van de lens?
Mobiele telefoon foto's vervormen nogal eens.
Anders kan ik je aanraden altijd eerst een styrene strip te leggen waar tegen je het eerste berghout of je eerste strip beplanking legt.
Styreen heeft het voordeel dat het zeer natuurlijk kromt en je kunt corrigeren tot hij helemaal goed ligt. Dan kun je wat Piet zegt precies corrigeren tot de zeeg en afstand tot dek een perfect verloop heeft. Niet mijn eigen truuk hoor, gezien zoals vele andere bouwers het ook doen.
Voorbeeldje:
Maar daar waar de rode pijlen van Piet staan zit daar geen deuk in het berghout? Of is dat de vervorming van de lens?
Mobiele telefoon foto's vervormen nogal eens.
Anders kan ik je aanraden altijd eerst een styrene strip te leggen waar tegen je het eerste berghout of je eerste strip beplanking legt.
Styreen heeft het voordeel dat het zeer natuurlijk kromt en je kunt corrigeren tot hij helemaal goed ligt. Dan kun je wat Piet zegt precies corrigeren tot de zeeg en afstand tot dek een perfect verloop heeft. Niet mijn eigen truuk hoor, gezien zoals vele andere bouwers het ook doen.
Voorbeeldje:
G
Guest
Guest
Ziet er goed uit, Heinrich!
@Hoosterw Thank you for that great tip, Hans. So let me just say that on the Batavia our Admiraal from Kolderstok actually indicates the lines of the two berghouten and the one plank inbetween the two berghouten on the spanten. So the steeg is determined by the indications on the spanten - there I was just following the line as per the instructions. The two berghouten then simply gets glued onto the #1 and #3 plank so the model builder should really not make a mistake. However, you are right - my top berghout does not show a "deuk" and that is why I am not happy with it. When I glued it on top of the first plank, it must have moved under the clamps without me noticing it. Well-spotted, Hans!
Kind regards-Heinrich
Kind regards-Heinrich
@Scheepsgast Thank you Erik. You did a beautiful job of the planking on your Batavia, so I have a nice example to aspire to!
